Hello From Cuba (12)

a Telecommunications Building, Downtown Havana,jewel, there is a beautiful park with tropical flowers,
Thursday, April 13, 2005, 3:32 pmshadowy trees and benches. And almost all the
I really gotta hurry, I only have about 28 minutes leftbenches are missing their wooden slats, on the seat,
on my Internet card so I am going to try to be briefthe backrest or both. And these benches are located
here.right outside Cuba´s most famous building!
The last few days have been extremely interesting. IToday I received the explanation that quality wood is
am not a political expert, but in a city like Havana youextremely difficult to get and that people simply help
can´t help but be confronted with politics.themselves.....
Everywhere you see billboards with political slogans,The number and types of private entrepreneurial
monuments of heroes that were significant inschemes is too large to mention. Only a few are
Cuba´s history, pictures of Che Guevara andlegal, for example the paladares (private restaurants
Fidel Castro, and the Cuban Revolution as well as thein private homes), the casas particulares (bed and
present economic circumstances are omnipresentbreakfasts) as well as various types of private taxis.
topics of conversation.But apart from this small number of officially
I have read a lot about Cuba and tried to talk to aspermitted private enterprises, virtually everybody in
many people as possible and there are a few thingsthis country has turned into an entrepreneur. Any
that have crystallized in my mind as generalperson that owns a car, and car ownership is
impressions of Cuba. Once again, these are myextremely restricted here, uses it to give a lift to
personal impressions and they are definitely notpeople, picks up passengers at a street corner and
based on scientific fact, but nevertheless I will sharedrops them off 20 minutes later in return for 10
them with you.Pesos, all money made under the table.
Cubans are a fiercely proud and independent peopleAll these things are strangely ironic to me, since Cuba
and more than anything they insist on preservingofficially is a Communist country, where private
their national independence and sovereignty. Atproperty and private enterprise is all but forbidden,
various times throughout history Cuba wasbut in order to survive the entire population has
dominated by the Spanish, the English or theturned into an army of entrepreneurs.
Americans and since the Cuban Revolution in 1959On the other hand, Cuba has achieved tremendous
Cubans have had self-determination for the first timeaccomplishments, for a small, third-world Carribean
in history. Obviously, Cubans avowed political enemycountry. Close to 100% of Cuba´s population
is the US goverment, but I have heard numerousis literate, public education is available to everybody.
people say that they have nothing against theBlack people and women in particular have benefited
American people, their issues are with the USfrom the effects of the revoluation. The health care
government, and in particular the embargo and theand education system are among the most
travel restrictions for Cubans living in the US.developed systems in the 3rd world, and
Apparently, relatives of Cuban families are now onlyCuba´s life expectancy and infant mortality
allowed to travel to Cuba once every 3 years, so therates are among the best of the world. In addition,
policites were tightened significantly by the USpost-revolutionary Cuba has also dedicated itself to
government in recent times.promoting sport and athelticism and today Cuba
The results of the embargo and the economicexcels in many different sports (track and field,
shortages are visible everywhere, buildings arebaseball, basketball, volleyball, fencing and others) on
crumbling, there is not enough construction material,an international level.
hospitals are lacking in equipment, and personalSo all in all, the Cuban Revolution has had some
income is extremely low (eg. between $ 8 and $20 aastoundingly positive effects on the country, despite
month...). As a result, everybody is forced to open aall the hardships that people still experience. However,
little side business. During the last few days I haveit seems that there is a little bit of optimism in the air,
heard that it is extremely common in Cuba to stealsince Cuba signed trade agreements with Venezuela,
resources from the State since all economic activityvarious other Latin American countries and China. And
including retail is nationalized.of course great hope is placed in Cuba´s
People steal cosmetics, hygience products, cement,tourism industry.
wood, computers, cigars, everything that is notHowever, on the other hand, you have to keep in
absolutely nailed down. Then they sell the productsmind that Cuba is still a dictatorship, a totalitarian
privately under the table. It is strangely ironic that in aregime and human rights and personal freedoms are
Communist country, everybody has turned into anrestricted here. There is a palpable paranoia here
entrepreneur... The phrase that I have heard isamong people in that they are afraid of publicly
¨hay que inventar¨, you have to inventcriticizing the regime. And organizations like the CDR,
things - be creative in order to survive.the Comite de la Defensa de la Revolution, often act
This mentality manifests itself in some very obviousas watchdogs and informers on the people. Travel is
ways: yesterday Pedro and I tried to get into theextremely restricted, or impossible, and there are no
Partagas Tobacco Factory since I wanted to go on aofficial methods of criticizing the government.
tour. The security guard told us that an employeeThis short little bit of time has been great in giving
had died and that therefore the factory was closed.me an insight into Cuban culture, politics and
Then, under his breath, he asked us if we wanted toeconomics, and my classes at the university are
buy a box of cigars. How amazing: the security guardgreat since my colleagues also add to a very
protecting the tobacco factory is selling (stolen)interesting discussion. We discuss and compare the
cigars on the black market.Scandinavian, Cuban and Canadian health systems,
Also, just outside the Capitol building, Havana´spolitical systems, mass media and economic policies
most astounding and most well-known architecturaland all this has truly been an eye-opening experience.